Lee Doii, Kwak Hyun-joo, Hong Eun-ju and Im Seon-oc tweak their styles with color, embellishments


The jingling noise of eye-catching sandals covered with colorful beads, tassels and tiny bells was only a little part of the exotic and flamboyant show.

There was nothing new to designer Lee Doii’s use of chiffon, silk and feminine lines but she added much more glitz to Doii 2012 S/S collection showcased at Seoul Fashion Week Wednesday by embellishing dresses and gowns with sequins, beads, flower patterns and lace.

Pink and turquoise ankle-length dresses adorned with layers of lace and noisy Art Deco jewelry recalled the glamorous princesses of Arabian Nights, the inspiration behind the designs. Lee visited the Arabian desert before setting about the collection showcased at SETEC in Daechi-dong, southern Seoul. 

Designer Kwak Hyun-joo’s collection showcased Tuesday was in line with Lee’s in terms of flowery details, but was more powerful than feminine and more retro than exotic.

She showcased black stripe and leopard printed leather jackets and flared miniskirts embroidered with bold flower patterns and beads of vivid yellow, magenta and deep purple, reminiscent of the 1970s retro glam look. The occasional use of mesh added a sexy vibe.

The collection was dedicated to her 10-year-old cat Nadia, which inspired her one day, reminding her of a sunflower that offers unconditional love to the sun, or in this case, to Kwak. The concept was certainly not lost on the audience as the show opened with the shrill cry of a cat.

While Korea’s fashion industry has been growing and expanding overseas, insiders say that womenswear designers in Korea are relatively weak both in artistry and sales compared to menswear designers. At this season’s SFW, womenswear designers seemed to be putting in efforts to establish a firm signature image, whether feminine and princess-like or more neutral and sporty.

Hong Eun-ju and Im Seon-oc who also showcased Tuesday belong to the latter. 

Hong continued her easy looks with earth-colored leggings, hoodies and saggy shirts, something her brand ENZUVAN has been doing for the past several seasons. She experimented a little this season by pepping up the garments with bits of chiffon and jersey here and there. The unusual catwalk ― models casually walked diagonally, not straight, and abruptly turned back halfway down the catwalk ― was in tune with the brand’s comfortable and easy-going image.

Using functional materials, Im Seon-oc of the brand IMSEONOC offered wearable and smart outfits to help urbanites cope with climate change. In contrast to the simple silhouettes, Im decorated the garments with futuristic patterns and accessories.

By Park Min-young  (claire@heraldcorp.com)