In today’s fiercely competitive fashion world where fast fashion poses a formidable threat to emerging designers and local brands struggle against global brands, an understanding of what women really want might be just what smaller players need.

Seoul’s position as a fashion capital may be weak, but Seoul Fashion Week for fall/winter 2013 seemed to have just that.

How and What by Park Byung-kyu lived up to modern women’s wish to look powerful, confident and smart in sexy, bold looks.

Park, the designer behind the most loved brand among local women and buyers, offered sexy, skintight dresses in glossy leather and graphic patterns as if borrowed from Catwoman’s closet. But there were also wearable items for the real world such as the mini mustard yellow dress layered with black nets.

“This is about contemporary women who are very smart, women with progressive ideas. Being sexy is not for sex appeal but for showing their female charm,” said Park after the show.

Park also brought elements of the evening looks to daytime wear.

The slim-fitting glossy black trench coat, black leather jackets and variations of vests and an evening dress were pieces that women should keep in mind when in need of a boost to their self-esteem.

Accessories such as the metal trim clutch, snakeskin print clutch, Spiderman web-inspired thigh-high boots and bold necklaces added extra confidence to the looks. 

Inspired by punk, a longtime symbol of rebellion and youth, Steve J & Yoni P brought the subculture to the mainstream, substituting studs with crystal beads and metallic prints, which were incorporated into knit sweaters, sweatshirts, belted skirts and trousers.

The wide-sleeve blouse with crowned skull print paired with matching print trousers was shown to the audience before the show as singer Lee Hyo-ri made her appearance wearing the same piece.

The red-and-black checkered skirt with gold metallic prints was a fresh approach to the conventional checkered patterns seen numerous times on the catwalks for the fall/winter season.

The designer couple, who had an indie band play background music for their S/S 2013 show, also invited a pianist and a DJ to play upbeat and playful music during the show.

Kang Ki-ok at Kiok also opened her show with live beat boxing by Go Young-bin, following a symbolic opening film.

The designer said she found her inspiration in her New York studio. The white brick and wooden furniture became motifs in blouse, mini dress, a denim padded jumpers. The brick pattern was well incorporated with the blue-denim light padding jumper. Simplification of the interior-inspired motifs appeared toward the end of the show in a pink and white color block mini dress and flowing silk chiffon jumpsuit in wooden brown.

While efforts to imbue the shows with youthful and playful feelings prevailed, Moon Young Hee presented her signature style of sophisticated and deconstructed tailoring in her serene show, the mood underlined by soothing piano music.

“My inspiration came from a vast field where horses run freely. I wanted to express the free spirit, and lightness of the air in the collection,” said Moon after the show.

Despite using heavy silk fabric, the designer created lightness by cutting and adding volume.

Layers of white shirts, vests and overcoats created her signature puffy silhouette and the overcoat in glossy white or black silk that came with flared trousers maintained the calm ambience.

Lie Sang-bong presented a collection with motifs of “hanok” Korea’s traditional houses, the same collection that was shown during the Paris Fashion Week for the 2013 fall and winter season.

The geometric patterns were the dominant feature on blouses, blazers, mini dresses and long dresses.

Tibaeg by rookie designer Cho Eun-ae will be a name to keep in mind for great leggings and sweaters ― the key pieces worn under winter overcoats.

The white leggings with repetitions of black diamond-shaped patterns came paired with a light black sweater featuring flower prints in the front. The diamond-shape patterns continued on white sweaters and on the hem of the overcoats.

By Lee Woo-young  (wylee@heraldcorp.com)