The Korea Herald

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Meatballs and mash at Park Royal

British-inspired eats at new restaurant in Seorae Village

By Korea Herald

Published : Feb. 6, 2015 - 20:16

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Park Royal’s black cherry meatballs arrive nestled on a creamy bed of mashed potatoes, a fortifying combination of starchy carbs and hefty protein. 
Park Royal opened in Seoul’s Seorae Village in November. (Kim Myung-sub/The Korea Herald)Park Royal: 81-10 Banpo 4-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul; (02) 537-7333; open 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., 5 to 10 p.m. on weekdays and 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. on weekends, reservations recommended; Park Royal’s special dishes cost 18,000 won to 25,000 won, mainndishes cost 35,000 won to 98,000 won, desserts cost 3,000 won to 8,000 won Park Royal opened in Seoul’s Seorae Village in November. (Kim Myung-sub/The Korea Herald)Park Royal: 81-10 Banpo 4-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul; (02) 537-7333; open 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., 5 to 10 p.m. on weekdays and 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. on weekends, reservations recommended; Park Royal’s special dishes cost 18,000 won to 25,000 won, mainndishes cost 35,000 won to 98,000 won, desserts cost 3,000 won to 8,000 won

Hints of cinnamon from the meatballs heighten the fruity accents of the housemade berry compote and chutney adorning the dish, while a rich and fragrant port and red wine gravy pairs well with the buttery mashed potatoes.

When all the various components of the dish are piled onto one fork, it makes for a sumptuous bite that hints at a promising future for the newly minted restaurant.

Park Royal, according to manager Kim Ji-young, opened its doors in Seoul’s Seorae Village last November.

Now, over three months later, the two-story establishment seems to have settled into a steady gait, attracting an uninterrupted flow of diners with its diverse repertoire of eats that range from British-inspired Scotch eggs and shepherd’s pie to Italian pasta and pizza.

“We are going for casual fine dining,” said Kim, 30, explaining how there are a la carte options for diners who do not want to be constrained to a prix fixe menu.

The eats at Park Royal are based on British cuisine, according to head chef Lee Yong-ho.

“To which we add our own edge,” Lee, 33, elaborated. 
Park Royal’s meatballs and mash (front)— topped with housemade berry compote and chutney — and Scotch egg with grilled asparagus (Kim Myung-sub/The Korea Herald) Park Royal’s meatballs and mash (front)— topped with housemade berry compote and chutney — and Scotch egg with grilled asparagus (Kim Myung-sub/The Korea Herald)

Scotch eggs, yolks still runny, are served atop a bed of mushrooms that have been spiked with white wine and mustard. Grilled asparagus over a pleasantly tart bearnaise sauce accompany the meal.

There is a fragrant kick to the meat encasing the eggs, which Lee reveals is a blend of cayenne pepper, rosemary and thyme.

Sunflower seeds add another dimension to the French-inflected take on the classic British dish.

Shepherd’s pie features minced lamb seasoned with a pinch of nutmeg and topped with garlic-infused mashed potatoes, while Park Royal’s Sunday roast plate features Yorkshire pudding, roast beef and roast chicken, Lee revealed.

“Every morning we make roast beef and only sell a limited number of Sunday roast plates,” Lee said.

In addition to British-inspired fare, owner-chef Derek Oh, 36, revealed plans to bolster the establishment’s brunch menu with dishes like eggs Benedict and ricotta cheese pancakes.

For Valentine’s Day, Oh said a prix fixe menu is in the works and reservations are recommended.

By Jean Oh (oh_jean@heraldcorp.com)