The Colli Orientali (eastern hills) of Friuli look right down into Slovenia. The vineyards there are some of the most prized in the region. You can see why when you taste this Sauvignon Blanc from producer Paolo Meroi, who cultivates his 34-acre vineyard organically. It’s rich, racy and pure. The 2009 has a bracing minerality, bright citrus flavors and a touch of lemon grass.

Splurge on a bottle to drink with lobster or Dungeness crab. It’s a great match with smoked salmon or trout too, or gravlax.

While you’re shopping, check out the estate’s Nestri, a blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, too.

● Region: Friuli

● Price: About $35.

● Style: Rich and complex.

● What it goes with: crab, lobster, smoked fish.

By S. Irene Virbila

(Los Angeles Times)

Distributed by MCT Information Services)