Hungarian wines encompass much more than sweet Tokajis. Consider this lovely dry red from J&J Eger Wine Co. in the hills 60 miles west of Tokaj. The grape is the indigenous Kekfrankos, and it’s made by the winegrower Janos Stumpf in partnership with Canadian master sommelier John Szabo (who’s of Hungarian ancestry).

Similar to Blaufrankish in Austria, Kekfrankos gives a minerally nuanced red with a generous perfume. The Eged-Hegy Dulo (Eged Hill Vineyard) is dry-farmed, and the vines are 40 years old. Production is small, and only a few wine shops carry it.

But what a wonderful find at less than $25. Its lively acidity and complexity make it a beautiful wine with food, especially roasted or braised lamb or beef, grilled sausages and chops. I drank it with braised lamb shanks and beans.

● Region: Eger, Hungary

● Price: $20 to $23

● Style: Complex and minerally

● What it goes with: Braised meats and roasts, grilled sausages

By S. Irene Virbila

(Los Angeles Times)

(Distributed by MCT Information Services)