The Antinori family now counts 26 generations in the wine business in Tuscany, Italy. That’s quite a history. But in the Napa Valley, it’s much shorter. Though Marchese Piero Antinori bought an estate on Atlas Peak in the 1980s, the family produced its first wine, a Cabernet, only in 2001.

The 2009 Antica Chardonnay is one of the finest Chardonnays I’ve tasted recently from California. I love its minerality and bright acidity, the light touch with oak. Each sip reveals something different ― citrus, smoke, stone. The texture is gorgeous; the finish is long and lush.

Drink it with oysters, with chilled Dungeness crab, seared scallops or lobster.

● Region: Napa Valleyw

● Price: From $24 to $37

● Style: Elegant and focused

● What it goes with: Oysters, chilled crab, scallops, lobster

By S. Irene Virbila

(Los Angeles Times)

(MCT Information Services)