This is the eighth in a series on how to get by as a vegan or vegetarian in rural Korea. ― Ed.


No vegetarian cooking series is complete without the discussion of the stereotypical protein, tofu, known as “dubu” in Korean.

Before we get into the many ways to use it, however, I’d like to dismiss a few myths. First, that eating it excessively is a terrible idea. Studies conflict. The main theory is that the phytoestrogens (chemical compounds in plants that mimic estrogen in the human body) can have negative effects.

Guess what? All plants have phytoestrogens. Carrots more than many. So until you give up all plant matter and allow an excess of red meat to wreak its havoc on your digestion, don’t worry too much.

The second myth is that a vegetarian diet is inherently lacking in protein. You do not need much protein. The human body can make nearly every amino acid from other sources. Note how many people in developing countries eat a lot of greens, live, and are not fat. Could too much protein be more of a problem than too little?

In any case, a “complete” protein source can be made by combining any two of the following: grains, legumes and nuts. So if you had rice with beans or bread and a handful of almonds, you’re in good hands.

The third myth is that tofu is a meat substitute. It is not. And if you try to use it as such you will be disappointed. Just as a chicken steak is not a substitute for a ribeye and fried beef is not fried chicken, tofu is its own thing. Use it as such and you will be much more pleased with the results.

Choosing the right dubu is more important than how you cook it. There are several varieties, from “sundubu” (unset tofu, the softest), which comes in tubes, to “budeoryeoun dubu” (soft, but holds shape) and even “jjigae yong dubu” (for use in stews, the hardest of the bunch). If you purchase the dubu fresh in the market, you are likely to get something slightly harder than “jjigae yong” dubu, which is best for frying.

To make it even chewier, throw it in the freezer overnight. When it comes out, if you thaw, press, dry and drain it sufficiently, it’s a chewy and flavor-absorbant miracle that barely resembles what most of the world knows as tofu.

To press and drain, wrap the tofu in paper towels or clean towels, put something of some weight on top (like a frying pan), and wait a few hours for the liquid to come out.

What to do with those chunks you have now? The standard “East Asian” or pasta or curry are always an option. In good weather you may want to mildly marinate them (Asian sauce recommended) and then grill them on the barbecue. If there aren’t skewers to be had, a tin-foil baking sheet will do the trick, with a bit of a compromise in texture to endure.

A caution on dubu marination: Dubu is a flavor sponge. If your marinade has too much soy or vinegar it can be like eating those things neat. So watch your proportions and give the dubu about an hour per side. Don’t overdo it.

Marinated dubu is only the beginning. In the next dubu column we’ll make breakfast, a cream soup, and a white sauce. With no milk or egg. And yes, it will be good.

By Darren Bean!

Darren Bean! is a former prosecutor and lecturer in the department of Criminology at Chosun University. He can be reached at themagicbean@hotmail.com. The exclamation mark is part of his legal name. ― Ed.