Articles by Jean Oh
Jean Oh
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Napoli-style coffee in Seoul
In the morning, caffeine-seeking early birds stroll into Leesar Coffee Roasters’ latest espresso nook and put in their orders at the counter. Those in the know swiftly lay their receipts down in the front of the barista, who then expertly pulls shots from a semi-automated espresso machine. Once extraction is complete, the barista sets tiny steaming cups of caffeine next to their corresponding receipts, passing off tips if needed, for instance, if the brew should be stirred a specific n
Food March 6, 2021
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Donburi and tonkatsu at their simple best at Hoho Sikdang
For over four years, Hoho Sikdang has been steadily serving homey Japanese eats, first from a hanok in Seoul’s Daehangno then at another hanok in Ikseon-dong before expanding to two more locations in Seongsu-dong and Sinsa-dong. At the latest spot, which opened near Dosan Park in November, one will find tonkatsu -- fried pork cutlet -- crafted with pork fillet, as well as various donburi -- rice bowls -- topped with everything from thick slices of salmon sashimi to avocado and natto. T
Food Feb. 20, 2021
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Fresh cheese made with fresh milk at Youngjun Farm
Dairy -- the fresh, unadulterated scent of milk -- unfurls on the tongue when one bites into a warm, crisply grilled slice of Youngjun Farm’s halloumi cheese. It comes as no surprise when Kim Joo-hye, 53, says with great emphasis, “Using fresh milk is the most important part of our cheesemaking process.” Over two decades ago, when Kim and her husband Na Won-kyung moved to Miwon-myeon in North Chungcheong Province from Seoul, she had no idea the cheese she and her husband st
Food Feb. 6, 2021
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Reinterpreting French pastries at Revisite
At Revisite, owner-chef Lee Seung-jun incorporates Korean ingredients like black sesame into traditional French desserts like the Paris-Brest. For Lee, who studied pastries at Le Cordon Bleu-Sookmyung and worked at several prominent dessert shops and bakeries, this is the whole purpose of Revisite, the dessert shop he opened in Samseong-dong, Seoul this winter. “Revisite” means to “reinterpret” in French, Lee explains, which he felt was the perfect name for his place,
Food Jan. 23, 2021
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Bolognese meets Burgundy at Hugo Dosan
At Hugo Dosan, a new addition to Seoul’s dining scene, chef Hugo Won serves up his take on pasta. After learning the ropes at Le Cordon Bleu in Paris, Won racked up experience at two Michelin-starred restaurants before striking out on his own. Fast-track to Nov. 12, when Won and his friend soft-opened Hugo in Sinsa-dong. We wanted to create “a comfortable space where one could enjoy food and wine,” Won, 29, explained in an email interview. Won added that he and his friend
Food Jan. 9, 2021
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Healthyish, Mediterranean fare at Chick Peace
Chick Peace, a Mediterranean-inspired fast casual spot, seems to have mastered the art of serving healthyish, gourmet-inflected fare with the speed and convenience of fast food. Diners can swoop in and, from one of several automated machines, pick and choose from salads, pita bread “burgers,” shakshuka and rice plates, adding on sides of their choosing. Portions are generous and everything is flavorful and solid. These are fluffy gyro-style “burgers” and heart
Food Dec. 27, 2020
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New York-based Lots O Bagels opens in Seoul
One bite of Lots O Bagels‘ sinfully chewy everything bagel swaddled around a thick schmear of feather-light cream cheese, smoked salmon, iceberg lettuce, tomato, onion and capers will confirm this spot knows how to make bagels. What started as a stand-alone bagel nook in New York’s Astoria in 1997 has branched out into a second location, right here in Korea. “My husband loves bagels so much and wanted to enjoy the bagels from our New York store in Korea,” said Lots O
Food Dec. 12, 2020
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Protein-centric salads at Orora
It started with burgers, but warm salads could very well be a stand-out addition to the menu at Orora -- a burger and salad restaurant that opened in September. “Initially, I ran a burger joint but when I moved to the Apgujeong Rodeo area, I added salads,” Orora Burger and Salad owner-chef Cho Kyung-wook, 29, said in an email interview. “I went and checked out the salad spots that were doing well in the market, but in my opinion there was too little protein and the salads a
Food Nov. 28, 2020
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Bunker Company brings its brews to Seoul
Anaerobic fermentation, a fairly new form of coffee processing, can truly wow with its bold and memorable flavor profile when well executed from farm to cup. Bunker Company’s Costa Rica Cordillera de Fuego is one such example. There is that initial, irresistible funk characteristic of fermented coffee followed by fragrant and rich notes of cinnamon and cacao nibs. “Usually there are three types of coffee processing -- washed, pulped and natural,” Bunker Company CEO Park
Food Nov. 14, 2020
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Beloved sandwich shop moves to new Seongsu-dong perch
On a quiet weekday, before noon, Mia Nonna, the beloved sandwich shop that recently moved to Seoul’s Seongsu-dong, is a peaceful and inviting space. Tall, tall walls are awash in soft, beige pink and ceiling length windows let the autumn sunshine filter in. Several outdoor tables welcome those who want to enjoy the fall foliage while munching on sandwiches and sipping from steaming mugs of hot coffee. “I deliberately used indi pink and wood tones to warm up the space because I
Food Oct. 24, 2020
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Artisanal sausages, cold cuts and ham at Xesc Menzl
After a brief stint in the skillet, Xesc Menzl’s debrecener sausage emerges smoky, laced with spices and slightly piquant. Juicy and finely textured, the debrecener requires no additional condiments thanks to its complex and fragrant medley of flavors. One bite unleashes a pop of nutmeg and the heat of chili. “The debrecener is a Hungarian sausage,” said Xesc Menzl owner-chef Kim Jung-hyun, 33, in an email interview. “It is crafted with pork and pork back fat, ca
Food Sept. 19, 2020
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Barrel-aged beer at OBC
Amber-hued, redolent of honey and toasted walnuts, Original Beer Company’s barrel-aged Moonlight Scottish ale walks the line between whisky, wine and beer with its potent, full-bodied flavor profile and relatively high alcohol content. Boasting 9.5 percent alcohol by volume, this brew is stronger than an average ale, and that is no accident. The newly minted craft brewery is tapping into the global trend of barrel-aged beer -- where beer is fermented in barrels often previously used to
Food Sept. 5, 2020
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Classic bites at Oui Madeleine
Sequestered in Seoul’s Cheongdam-dong, Oui Madeleine stays true to its name. There is only one item on the menu –- the shell-shaped madeleine. Asked why she specializes solely in these sponge cakes, owner-patissier Ryu Hye-sun answered, “While I love to explore that which is new, I have a penchant for the basics and classics and that is reflected in my decision to focus on the madeleine.” Before Ryu soft opened Oui Madeleine on Aug. 7, she studied pastries at Le Co
Food Aug. 22, 2020
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'Agitated' Pour-Over Coffee at Danil
To agitate or not to agitate -- that is the question that baristas perfecting their pour-over coffee may find themselves asking at one point in their careers. At Danil Seoul, the answer is a resounding yes as one will discover watching a small spoon being used to stir the coffee grounds during the extraction process. “There are several reasons we use a spoon,” Danil Seoul roasters Ahn Sung-min, 34, and Lee Jae-woo, 29, explained in an e-mail interview. “First, it er
Food Aug. 7, 2020
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Natural wines at Vinosn
To curious passersby, Vinosn may look like a run-of-the-mill wine shop. One step inside reveals this shop stocks exclusively natural wines and Grower Champagnes and that the owner, Agnes Kim, boasts over five years of experience and a dedicated passion for these increasingly hip and sought-after libations. “Before natural wine was imported to Korea, I drank it abroad,” Kim, 49, said in an email interview, recalling how she first encountered this much-buzzed-about wine. Then in
Food July 17, 2020
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